Monkey on a Motorcycle

A weeklong motorcycle adventure with a 16-year-old and her dad.

High-Fiving each other after a series of great curves and bends

Story and Photos by Kendal Foreman and Jim Foreman

It was our second day traveling.  We had just finished a hearty breakfast in Silverton,  Colorado and were traveling north on what my dad explained was the “Million-Dollar Highway.”

After a series of impressive turns and a downhill zig-zag along the canyon wall, my Dad turns into an overlook.  Checking with Dad that it’s OK to dismount I started taking in the view of the canyon and the river below.  There was a faint rumbling sound that could be heard in the distance.

Walking toward a steel bridge, it finally caught me in wonder.  In front of my eyes was a real plume of water cascading down about 100 feet into a pool at the bottom.  All of a sudden, it became apparent why my dad stopped here.  It took several minutes of staring and amazement before joining my Dad further along the overlook. 

Right then, the motorcycle adventure became alive and vibrant in my mind.

Only two years ago, on Father’s Day, was my first motorcycle ride.  Though Dad had asked me occasionally if I’d like to ride with him, I always refused.  A big part of that was due to the warning and concern my mom expressed.  She was not comfortable with me riding on the bike.  Secondarily, there may have been some fear there, too.  My Father only said, “One day, when you’re ready.”

First time riding a motorcycle - Father's Day 2015

 That day did finally arrive.  Like before, Dad asked if I’d like to join him on a ride.  The difference was that I decided to say, “Yes!”  With a pleasant look of surprise, Dad fitted a helmet, jacket, gloves and knee armor for my jeans and we went on a short but exciting ride.  At the end of the ride, The only thing I could remember was asking when we could do this again.  We were both excited.

Of course, Dad sent photos of me in my motorcycle gear with the bike to my mom to let her know.  Later, that exploded into an ugly but short-lived situation between my Mom and Dad.  Dad took it all in stride and told me how proud he was of me and that we could do it again, as soon as I wanted.

Several days after my first ride, the anger from Mom disappeared, and I even got dropped off several times on the motorcycle with nothing but a smile and a wave to Dad as he said, “Have a great time!”
Since that first ride, I’ve traveled up Pacific Coast Highway and through Baja California from Los Cabos to Orange County, CA. 

Being 16, I find that any average day can easily begin to overshadow the adventurous spirit. The foundation of curiosity discovered outdoors is lessened more and more as the routine of life solidifies. Exploration and wonder are sacrificed for an undetermined obligation or countless hours mindlessly spent on the computer. 

A couple of weeks ago, my Dad asked if I’d be interested in joining him at the Top O’ the Rockies Rally in Colorado. 

I was tentative to the idea.  It sounded fun, but I was used to lounging at home during the few remaining weeks of summer vacation.  I finally agreed and began to pack and prepare the day before we left.  One thing my Dad has taught me is to pack light.  It was a surprise that I had some extra room in my bag for some luxuries like drawing paper and some art supplies.

We began early Wednesday morning by loading my Dad’s new BMW S 1000 XR.  It was the first time I was going to be riding on this bike.  My previous journeys were on the BMW K 1200 RS. 
Packed and loaded we began our two-wheeled adventure from Tucson, Arizona.  Riding across the Mojave and Sonoran deserts on the freeway are not fun.  We trucked the bike to Tucson from Orange County, CA.

Along the way, the journey began to show off its stellar portfolio. There are stair-like slopes configured, as if by design, and patches of trees and greenery placed as if to appeal to a particular aesthetic.   There are landscapes that appear impossible to exist, only a few hundred miles away.

Salt River Canyon

Nearing 150 miles in, the road enticed us through layered rock canyons that appeared flattened by a massive rolling pin. The clouds overhead filled the sky like scales to a fish.  In those times, the imagination is let off its leash and encouraged to stretch its legs. Suddenly it’s as if the sky is a theater stage and the clouds and mountains are the performers and props.

Long stretches of road are perfect for achieving a state of Zen.  Zen to me is the admiration and appreciation formed from being present in one’s place and time. It’s appreciation for the mountains, the clouds, the lingering cattle, and grazing horses. It’s the soul of everything we ignore or glaze over in daily life that is suddenly given weight and importance. 

To make the long trip more enjoyable, my Dad outfitted my helmet with a Sena Bluetooth system.  This enabled us to talk to each other and for me to listen to my music off of my iPhone.  With a percussive tap to my knee armor, a sway of my shoulders, and a slight bounce to my helmet, the party was just getting started.

Often, I’d reach out my arms to catch a breeze in my arm vents, which then turns into a game I make for myself. One notion that you learn is how the angle of your fingers affects the way your hand lifts or dives while in motion. Motorcycle riders must make exceptional pilots.

Upon first entering Colorado from New Mexico, the wind greeted the arrival with a purple sundown and a wonderful smell of rain with trees.   A light drizzle began to fall.  I noticed Dad take a more deliberate and cautious pace as we traveled the last 20 miles in rainy darkness.  Dad pulled behind a car and seemed to let it lead the way.  He later explained that was because the car has better lighting and if any deer or other animals come onto the roadway, he’d have the additional reaction of the car driver ahead to react safely.

Our first night in Colorado, we spent in Durango. Our older little hotel smelled a bit musty. As we unpacked, there was a faint drift of marijuana in the air.  In school, I had heard stories about the pot appetite here.

Dinner at Durango Brewing Co.

We found Durango Brewing Company was still open after 9 pm, so we enjoyed a great light dinner.

The next morning we hustled to make Paonia, CO by noon so Dad could prepare for his 1 pm presentation about, “Riding in Europe Without Going Broke.”

We left Durango to gorgeous blue skies and wonderful weather as we continued north on the 550. 

Forests galore and beautiful mountains followed. It is proven by this passenger that one can receive a natural high just by being surrounded with enough shades of the color green.

Understandably, Colorado means 'colored' in Spanish.  That's why the welcome signs at the state line say "Welcome to Colorful Colorado."

A rush of exhilaration slapped a massive smile on my face. Endorphins must hang in the air! I inhaled a walloping mass of the breeze, knowing it’s among the freshest I’ll probably ever experience. The sweet smell will forever linger in in my mind and tease the senses.

We arrived in Silverton, a mining town that was able to preserve the rustic buildings from a time long passed. Here, this minor (not miner) had her first experience sitting at a bar, albeit with a cup of cocoa and not whiskey or tequila. Rest assured that no one cared.  It was evident there wasn’t the space to sit elsewhere.  It felt pretty good, too.

Fed and refreshed, we mounted the XR and continued north.  A quick stop at the previously mentioned waterfall brought us within minutes of Ouray, CO. 

Ouray is a charming town known for its hot springs.  It’s unlike anything I’ve seen, so far.  I hope to return and maybe spend a couple of days there.

Arrival into Paonia, CO and the Top O' the Rockies Rally

We arrived in Paonia, CO and the Top O’ the Rockies Rally at 11:30 am.  Each year, the Rally is put on by the BMW Motorcycle Club of Colorado.  Dad got right to work preparing for the presentation.  I helped in any way I could.  His presentation was exciting and made me think of my visit to London and Paris. 

Afterward, many people came up to me and said, “Hello Monkey!”  This surprised me because that’s my Dad’s nickname for me.  I guess online, he also refers to me as ‘The Monkey’ and that’s how people seemed to know me.  It’s happened before.  I am surprised by the number of good friends, all over the world, my Dad seems to have.

Paonia, Colorado is a small town with few people.  It’s very tranquil and green. The hills have a coat sewn with the brightest of grass, and the mountains hold you in what seems like cupped hands. The view surrounding me is pleasing to the eye and fuel for this daydreamer.

Motorcycling in Mexico Presentation

The following day, my Dad presented his popular ‘Motorcycling in Mexico’ presentation.  It was a full-house as nearly every seat was filled in the building.  Many people recognized me from the pictures Dad used during the presentation and asked me my thoughts of traveling on a motorcycle.

That day, Dad noticed that the rear tire had worn dangerously low to the cords.  He spent a few hours sourcing a replacement in this rural part of Colorado.  Finding one about an hour away, he made arrangements to get it replaced. 

Dad being gone gave me an opportunity to set out, on my own and explore the surrounding farm at the Airbnb we were staying.  The kind lady who owned the home also took me into the dainty Downtown area of Paonia. 

After strolling around and enjoying the afternoon on my own, Dad called me to say he was back and could pick me up.  It was wonderful to just wander around and enjoy the nuances of this little town.
Sadly, the end of the rally was upon us.  We packed our gear and got ready to head back home.

For the ride back we took a different way along the Blue Mesa and down to Gunnison.  Then we headed west to Naturita and then over to Utah.  It’s interesting to me how the scenery and terrain change quite dramatically across the state lines. 

We stayed the night in Utah to continue to Monument Valley and cross into Arizona the following day.

As we approached Monument Valley, a light rain began to fall.  It was no big deal, and only my knees seemed to get wet.  I wish we didn’t have such a long distance to cover that day.  I would have loved to spend a whole day among these giants.

Canyon de Chelly

We continued south through the Navajo Nation, stopping by Canyon de Chelly.  It was remarkable for the picturesque formations and bright green grass at the floor.  I wandered down to get a better look into this natural wonder.

From Canyon de Chelly, we made a mad dash home.  We hit rain for about 80 miles, but it was light and kept the temperatures cool. 

After 525 miles, we finally made it home.  In total, we traveled 1625 miles during these six days.  I was glad to be back, but a part of me missed being on the road. 

The following day, I had time to reflect on this amazing trip and came up with some truths and observations.

The world wants you to see it. It’s enticing to think that everything sits just for me, waiting to for discovery. It’s beautiful that nature is never the same from day to day.

To think, one could be locked up in their room only reading about experiences like this. This time, I got to live it.

Travel is a surefire way to uncover what you truly desire for yourself. It has done wonders to improve self-esteem and bring me out of the little world I’ve created for myself.

It cannot be stressed more that the world is incredibly vast, exciting, beautiful, and worthy of your time.

I may be the happiest kid in the world because of these chances for adventure presented to me.

This story is sponsored by Irv Seaver Motorcycles in Orange County, California.  When you're in the area please visit this legendary dealership.  Irv Seaver Motorcycles is Orange County's BMW Motorcycle Dealer offering world class service, New and Pre-Owned Motorcycles, Parts, Accessories, and Apparel.

©2017 Jim and Kendal Foreman All Rights Reserved

San Luis Obispo on my journey up Pacific Coast Highway

An interesting natural wall on our journey home

At the Closing ceremony at the Top O' the Rockies Rally

With my Dad at Loreto, BCS

In the Route 66 town of Holbrook and the Wigwam Motel.

A short nap and then we continued

In front of Michael Jackson's former Neverland Ranch

Loreto Centro

 

Utah was very beautiful

Route 66, Monument Valley and Four Corners.

I think it's time for a little overnight trip. 

Words and Photos ©2014 Jim Foreman

DETAILS OF THE TRIP

Destination:  Grand Circle of a beautiful part of the US Southwest starting and ending in Flagstaff, AZ

Round-trip Mileage: 668 Miles 

Motorcycle Ridden: 2004 BMW R 1150 RT-P (Former Torrance CHP cruiser) 

Best time to go: Fall, Spring

Number of statelines crossed: 4 (AZ, UT, CO, NM) 

Fun Factor: 10+ 

Passenger Fun Factor: 10+ (Estimated)

Natural Beauty Factor: 1-10 (10 is best) 11 

Cost of a National Park Annual Pass: $80.00  

Number of times one believes they are on Mars: 3

Map Link: Google Maps.

Flagstaff, Arizona

Flagstaff is the definite start and stopping point for a run through the southwest.  The route taken could have been easily modified to include Grand Canyon, Vermillion Cliffs, Horseshoe Bend near Page, AZ, Antelope Canyon, Zion National Park, Bryce Canyon National Park, Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument and much more.  All of these sites are well worth the trip and should be visited.  For this trip, one overnight hotel stay was all there was time for.  The goal was to visit Monument Valley, Four Corners Monument and Canyon De Chelly.  

Monument Valley 

The first major destination was Monument Valley.  To get here from Flagstaff, take Hwy 89 north to the 160 East toward Tuba City.  From the 160, Get gas and head north on the 163 at Kayenta toward Monument Valley.  Hwy 160, between Tuba City and Kayenta, will have you wondering if you were transported to the surface of Mars.  The terrain matches the images returned from the rovers on the red planet's surface.  Monument Valley straddles the Arizona and Utah Border.  Unlike Sedona, in Monument Valley, the formations are spread apart.  It gives an eerie and awe-inspiring perspective to the beauty and how on earth these formations originated.  

Monument Valley has been used in numerous movies and television shows.  Most recently it was used in "Breaking Bad" and "Disney's The Lone Ranger." 

Monument Valley was also featured in 1968's "Easy Rider," "2001: A Space Odyssey" and "Back to the Future III."  Legendary director John Ford used Monument Valley as a backdrop for countless films including some John Wayne classics, "Stagecoach," "The Searchers" and "She Wore a Yellow Ribbon".  John Ford also directed Henry Fonda as Wyatt Earp in "My Darling Clementine."  "Forrest Gump" and "National Lampoon's Vacation" also had memorable scenes shot here.

In addition to the numerous movies set here, Monument Valley is a source of profound beauty and inspiration.  Let yourself connect with nature and let it speak to you while you are here.

As you continue north on Hwy 163, turn around and you'll see the iconic stretch of road used in so many pictures and movies leading up to Monument Valley.  

Mexican Hat

Mexican Hat is a small town along the San Juan River.  Nearby is the namesake's formation which certainly looks like an upside-down sombrero.  It's worth taking the hard-packed dirt road that leads to the formation for a close-up view.  It's only two minutes out of your way and very easy.  Mexican Hat is also one of the few nearby towns one can find lodging.

Moki Dugway

From Mexican Hat, continue on the 163 Westbound until you reach the 261.  From here, you will reach the Moki Dugway.  Two interesting and worthwhile trips off of the 261 are Goosenecks State Park and the Valley of the Gods Road.  Valley of the Gods Road is a dirt road.  As you approach the sheer cliff face, it's easy to wonder in amazement how you would get to the top.  Moki Dugway is mostly hard-packed dirt and gravel.  Any motorbike can easily navigate it in dry weather.  Just mind the shoulder in the straightaways, as it is often soft sand.  Each switchback offers spectacular views.  Don't put your camera away.  You'll be often stopping to take magnificent pictures.

Natural Bridges National Monument

Natural Bridges National Monument is really close to the end of Hwy 261.  At the T- Intersection, at the end of the road, head left or west on Hwy 95 and the indicated turn off will be about half a mile away.  If you're into camping, this is a great place to make reservations for campsites. This park consists of three natural bridges, some Native American ruins and a Pygmy Forest.  All of this is connected by a nine-mile loop of paved road with easy access parking and turnouts.  Each of the bridges has well laid out hiking trails leading up to the bases.  The longest ones are about a half hour each way with about 200m elevation changes.  A telephoto lens will come in very handy at this site.

Town of Bluff

Bluff is a historic town that offers good lodging, great food and very attractive locations and scenery.  Bluff originated as a Mormon settlement and played a key role in the expansion of the west in addition to developing relationships between less-than-friendly Native Americans.  Fort Bluff is a great place to visit and spend a few moments.  The interpreters are quite knowledgeable and friendly.  If a meal is in order, you have a couple of options.  Many of the towns and counties in Utah are dry.  This means they don't serve or sell alcohol.  Nearby Blanding is one such town.  If you're done riding for the day, and you don't mind a glass of excellent locally-brewed cold beer or wine, head to the Cottonwood Steakhouse.  The food is delicious and they feature both indoor and outdoor seating.  Near the east end of town is also the Twin Rocks Cafe.  Lodging ranges from $55 to $190 a night.  Recapture Lodge is a 'best bet' offering comfort, price, location and amenities.  Reservations are highly recommended in Bluff.

Four Corners Monument

From Bluff, head east (right) on Mission Road (Hwy 162) to get to Four Corners Monument.  At the Colorado Border, the 162 becomes Hwy 41.  Continue on until you reach Hwy 160 and head west or Right.  Admission is $5.00 per person.  Cash only.  If you don't have cash, you will need to go five miles to the town of Teec Nos Pos for an ATM.  Light food, restrooms and Native American artwork and jewelry are available.  Here you will find the surveyed marker point indicating where Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona and Utah all meet.  This is the only place in the US where four states meet at one point.  This one is well worth a visit and is quite reasonable in cost.

Canyon De Chelly

From Four Corners, head south on Hwy 160 until you reach Teec Nos Pos and make a right.  Continue west on Hwy 160 until you reach Hwy 191 South.  North comes first, but you want to head south.  The road south will tease you with beautiful formations such as Point Rock and quiet and easy elevation changes.  Occasional wheelie bumps keep a rider from getting too complacent.  In the town of Chinle, look for the sign indicating Canyon De Chelly.  There is fuel, lodging and some very good restaurants.  The Visitors Center at Canyon De Chelly closes at 5pm, but one can follow the road to the north and south rim of the canyon without stopping at the Visitors Center.  If it's open, please do stop by.  There are many interesting displays and helpful rangers to offer advice and recommendations.  Campsites are also available.  Canyon De Chelly is spectacular!  It's not particularly deep, but the natural beauty, formations and colors will take your breath away.  This spot really deserves at least half to a full day to truly feel one has experienced it.  Hiking trails are abundant and each offers a unique perspective.  When you're ready to continue, ride back and southbound on Hwy 191 until you reach Interstate 40.  Then go West.

Route 66 and the Wigwam Motel Holbrook, AZ

Nearly everyone knows the line from the song "Route 66"... "Get your kicks on Route 66!"  Back in the day, Route 66 was a major east-west corridor in the US.  Many small towns were built around catering to travelers with kitschy cafes, attractions and gift shops.  Alas, with Interstate 40's construction, much of the original Route 66 towns were bypassed.   Since Interstate 40 actually utilized some of Route 66, some of the towns retain their charm and glory while others have been left to rot and crumble.  In Arizona, in particular, Route 66 is alive and well.  From east to west towns of Holbrook, Winslow, Winona, Flagstaff, Williams, Seligman, Peach Springs, Hackberry, Kingman and Oatman retain much of their charm. Other towns such as Twin Arrows, Two Guns and others are right off the interstate and can be explored, in ruin.  Two Guns, in particular, has a rich and historical past that can be easily explored and is well worth a stop. One can easily explore the Apache Death Caves.  Just bring a flashlight.  

Route 66 was featured in many movies including "Easy Rider," "Thelma and Louise" and "Little Miss Sunshine."  The 'Mother Road' was also lovingly depicted in the Pixar film, "Cars."  In the film, the fictional town of Radiator Springs borrows faithfully and re-imagines many Route 66 landmarks.  One such landmark is the 'Cozy Cone Motel' which is an inspired reproduction of the Wigwam Motel in Holbrook, Arizona.  Yes, you can stay in a Wigwam for around $65 a night.  

Since the release of "Cars", The Wigwam has acquired many of the original cars used to create the characters in the movie.  A red Chevy tow-truck which became 'Mater, along with many other classic cars, are on display.  This is a textbook example of reality inspiring art which inspired reality.

Flagstaff, AZ

Interstate 40 is a 75MPH highway that will quickly get you where you want to go.  Be mindful that DPS Arizona Highway Patrol does aggressively monitor and issues citations for speeding so keep it below 84, if you want to avoid paying the Arizona Luxury Tax.

Flagstaff is a great town with a rich historic district and lots of dining, drinking and lodging options.  'Flag', as it's called by locals, is an ideal base to explore this rich and majestic region of the southwest.  While in Flagstaff, be sure to enjoy a meal at Granny's Closet.  Look for the statue of a lumberjack and a tractor.  The pair also makes a cameo appearance in the film "Easy Rider."  

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On the Moki Dugway

Beautiful formations near Blanding, Utah.

Looks like an alien.

Bridge over the San Juan River in Mexican Hat, Utah.

The Comb Bluff near Blanding, Utah

Utah state line from Arizona

Oft photographed southbound Hwy 163 entrance into Monument Valley

Twin Rocks Cafe and Trading Post in Bluff, Utah.

Colorado state line from Utah.

New Mexico state line near the Four Corners Monument

Rock Point, Arizona

The Lumberjack and Tractor in front of Granny's Closet in Flagstaff.  Also seen in "Easy Rider."